Two Spits in the Ocean: Ediz and Dungeness, Washington

If one ever gets enough of rugged, storm-tossed seashores, I’ve never heard of it happening.

That particular example is on Ediz Hook, a three-mile arm of land that separates the deep water harbor of Port Angeles, Washington from the Strait of Juan de Fuca.

While many such sand spits around the world have been formed by the action of currents and variations in the depth of the sea bottom, Ediz Hook got its start as a glacial moraine, and some of those rocks were deposited not by wave action but glacial ice. On top of it, the eastward flow of water through the Strait deposited sediment from the Elwha River, establishing Ediz Hook.

Seen from Port Angeles across almost two miles of harbor, it looks like this.

That’s a U.S. Coast Guard Station, which occupies the eastern end of Ediz Hook, closest to the opening into the Strait. Port Angeles has the nearest deep water port to the Pacific Ocean to the west, and the port is a major employer in the city. The marine terminals handle a variety of forest and petroleum products, but another important role is repair and outfitting services, which is what brought the 289-meter long Alaskan Navigator there.

Port Angeles is also the terminal for the M.V. Coho ferry, which sails several times a day to Victoria, British Columbia, a 90-minute trip.

From out on Ediz Hook, though, even significantly large man-made things shrink to insignificance when seen at the foot of the Olympic mountain range, towering to the south.

M.V. Coho is moored at lower right.

On a clear day, which we were fortunate to have, the buildings of Victoria are visible across approximately 20 miles of water. Look to the northeast, even farther, and you may get a glimpse of 10,781-foot Mt. Baker, about 112 miles away.

The Spit to the East

Only a dozen miles to the east is another, larger spit, the largest natural sand spit in the United States: Dungeness Spit.

The 6.8 mile spit encloses Dungeness Harbor. It’s not a major port, but you may know the name Dungeness after the (delicious) species of crab that takes its name from the place.

Dungeness Spit is narrow and low in the water. Unlike Ediz Hook, it isn’t aggressively maintained or protected, nor does it have a roadway, as Ediz does. Hikers who set out to walk its length can find themselves in precarious circumstances if they haven’t paid attention to the tide schedule.

Here’s the view to the west, back toward Port Angeles, the Olympic range looming above.

Our knowledgeable local friend and guide made certain we checked the tide tables before we set out, advising us against the circumstance of having to make our way back by hopping from one large driftwood log to the next, surrounded by extremely cold water.

Depending on the tide, you may have a relatively easy or a rugged, rocky walk. If you reach the end (which we didn’t attempt), you’re at New Dungeness Lighthouse. Beyond it in the photo, another hazy glimpse of Mount Baker.

That arm of land in front of the lighthouse is a secondary spit that branches off.

Dungeness Spit is enclosed within Dungeness National Wildlife Refuge.

Need a Ride to the Lighthouse?

If you’re extra-keen on lighthouses, you can arrange to spend a week as a lighthouse keeper at Dungeness. The lighthouse accommodates up to eight people. You pay for the privilege and have duties that include raising and lowering the flag, watering the grass, and — of course! — polishing the brass. Click here to visit the Lighthouse Keeper Program information. Oh yes, they transport you to the lighthouse in a four wheel drive vehicle.

Visiting Ediz Hook and Dungeness Spit

You can drive along most of Ediz Hook as far as the gates of the Coast Guard station. To reach it, drive west along any of the streets near the harbor in Port Angeles and continue on Marine Drive. Marine Drive gets narrow and bumpy, passing a large paper mill. Mind the speed limit. Marine becomes Ediz Hook Rd. There is no admission, and there is free parking at a number of spots, as well as a boat ramp out near the Coast Guard station. That’s also where you’ll see the operations of the Port Angeles and Puget Sound Pilot Boats.

The most direct route to Dungeness Spit is to leave U.S. Route 101 at Kitchen-Dick Road a few miles west of Sequim (pronounced skwim). Drive north about three miles, and Kitchen-Dick bends right to become Lotzgesell Rd. Almost immediately you’ll see a sign to turn left to the Dungeness Wildlife Refuge on Voice of America Road. Continue into the refuge past several camping areas and park (free). There’s a $3 fee that covers groups of up to 4 people. It’s an easy half-mile walk along a paved path through dense forest, then a walk down to sea level, past a couple of stunning views at lookout points. Once you’re on the spit, you’re on your own. There are restrooms and interpretive information at the trailhead.

Have a favorite spit of your own? No one ever gets enough dramatic ocean views. Leave a comment.

Licensable, high resolution versions of some photographs in this post, and select images from other Under Western Skies posts are available on Shutterstock.com. Click on the linked photos, or CLICK HERE to view the Underawesternsky photo portfolio.

© Brad Nixon 2018