Posted by: Brad Nixon | June 1, 2016

On the Pier: Cayucos, California

The 840 mile-long coast of California is notable for beaches, surf, rocky remoteness, elephant seals, tiny shacks and extravagant mansions, tawdry strips of touristy attractions and genteel (dare we say pretentious?) enclaves of the wealthy.

And there are piers, several dozen: fishing piers, amusement piers, piers built for whaling ships, logging, freight or passengers. They vary in length from Santa Cruz Municipal Wharf — 2,745 feet — to Malibu’s 780 feet. I wrote about Malibu HERE, and more recently, about Redondo Beach Pier, HERE. Somewhere in the middle of the list at 953 feet is the wooden fishing pier at Cayucos, which is on the northern portion of Morro Bay, about halfway between Los Angeles and San Francisco.

IMG_3608 Cayucos Pier Brad Nixon

There’s not much to do by 21st-Century interactive involvement standards: you walk out on it, look, and walk back.

IMG_3591 Brad Nixon

There’s no restaurant, ferris wheel or aquarium, as on some piers. Still, there’s something innately irresistible about walking out over the ocean, beyond the surf, to turn back and look at the town, or along the coast, or simply to gaze out into the Pacific. We are, after all, as Melville said, water-gazers.

Here’s the view of Cayucos, population about 2,600, from the pier, fronted by the beach, the brown hills of the California Central Coast rising behind it.

IMG_3592 Brad Nixon

Not far north is Cambria, and, just beyond that, 20 miles from Cayucos, is San Simeon and the astounding Hearst Castle (we’ll visit there in a future post). Visible 5 miles to the south in clear weather is massive Morro Rock (“Gibraltar of the Pacific,” 581 feet high), although it was partially shrouded in fog when we visited earlier this week. (At low tide, you can walk or run the beach there).

IMG_3589 Morro Rock Brad Nixon

The pier’s had a tempestuous history. The original pier from the 1870s was destroyed in a storm, and the present-day one is a replacement.

IMG_3588 Cayucos Pier  Brad Nixon

You can walk along the main drag of Cayucos, shopping for trinkets or beach glass or antiques. There are no traffic signals, and the beach traffic tradition that motorists WILL stop for pedestrians applies. Longtime Californians tell us that used to to be the case in beach towns all up and down the coast, but it’s no longer the rule. Cheers to the citizens and visitors to Cayucos for remembering.

All beach towns offer a variety of food, and Cayucos has its share. At the very foot of the pier, duck into Duckie’s Chowder House, where they serve sandwiches, a variety of seafood, including fish and chips, and BOTH white and red clam chowder. We can vouch for the red from personal experience. Even slammed by a Memorial Day throng, they were bringing the fish, chips and chowder out of the kitchen at an impressive rate, and we barely had time to enjoy the view of the pier out the window before we were chowing down.

IMG_3600 Brad Nixon

For dessert, stroll a couple blocks south and stop in and see the Pie Man.

IMG_3603 Brad Nixon

I had his best-seller: apple caramel cinnamon, and The Counselor had cherry pie. Both delicious, not only for the filling, but the crust, too (any devoted pie person will tell you the crust is the test).

two pies Brad Nixon

 

Were there world enough and time, we’d have tried one of the ones topped with meringue, too.

IMG_3604 Pieman meringue Brad Nixon

Well worth seeking out. The Pie Man, himself, is a delight to speak to. Ask him about the pie-making craft, and you’ll go to school on pie-making.

IMG_3606 Brad Nixon

Whether you’re visiting Paso Robles, San Luis Obispo, Pismo Beach or Hearst Castle, Cayucos might be worth an hour’s break to jump off U.S. Route 1 and gaze at the water.

© Brad Nixon 2016

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Responses

  1. Here, it’s “on the pier.” In Paris, it’s “on the boulevards” (or, more precisely “les Grands Boulevards). And desserts always get my full attention, whether on the rue de Buci in le quartier Saint Germain, or at a California pier. Well done!

    Like

  2. Hey, cool post. I just love the outdoors, fishing, camping and hunting. People spend way too much time indoors watching the TV. Thanks for writing this and making us inspired.

    Liked by 1 person

    • Thanks for commenting and inspiring ME. Glad to have you along.

      Like


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